By tom Halford

Inspired by the phrase: ‘Man, in his night, searches for his own light’, the collection exhibits the brand’s ‘protagonist searching for his emotions’ with its SS18 collection. 

SONGZIO’s SS18 collection “Crossing Veils” had a minimalist design with a strong focus on scratch like vertical lines. The collection explored the idea of men’s emotions not being taken seriously; trapped behind bars.

The brand’s signature ‘Cross Look’ is visible: a tailored jacket, with voluminous trousers. The collections appears to enjoy playing with contrasts, juxtaposing the youthful watercolour printed inner-wear with modern and strict outerwear. Velasquez’s portraits of infant Margarita Teresa in her pink and blue dresses influenced the colour pallet of royal blue, yellow and orange. These colours stood against the brands traditional black and white, getting warmer though out the collection - representing the fluidity of emotions.

Cross strokes painted on canvas in oil paints have been translated into the stripes seen on the shawl collared tailored suits. Vertical lines represented the physical, whereas horizontal conveyed the emotional. Notice the lack of horizontal lines, displaying men not being comfortable expressing emotion, due to gender roles thrusted upon them. A clear message throughout. These suits were the main focus of the collection. However, other noteworthy pieces included the straight cut leather trousers with fringe detailing, the sheer grandad shirt and the white t-shirts with images of men painted in watercolour printed on them.

Kabyashree Saikia